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Cambodian Journal 2011, Part 22 – Goodbye Siem Reap Hello Phnom Penh

As always, our time in Siem Reap melted away and as our departure date of February 1 crept up, we felt the poignancy of leaving and taking our lasts looks around, we became nostalgic before we even left. We rode more than we walked, either three on Eddie”s motorbike, which certainly got the attention of the locals or sympathy rides ...

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Cambodian Journal 2011, Part 21 – Still on Pub Street, a Giant Block Party

DEAR TOURIST, you stood on the corner of Pub Street and within five minutes you were preyed upon by tuk-tuk drivers, little girls, and handicapped men, all wanting something from you. As a first timer, we know you are enjoying the scene, the carnival. l like atmosphere, an evening promising Bacchanalian excess. Please allow us to give you some advice, ...

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Cambodian Journal 2011, Part 20 – Siem Reap An Evening Out

In 1992 when Donald and I first arrived in Siem Reap, the tourists were few and the accommodations almost nil. Our group was billeted into the Grand Angkor, Raffles owned hotel, and the French Conservancy, home to the famous French archeologists of the EFEO (Ecole Francaise d”Extreme Orient). The Grand Angkor Hotel, one of the famous colonial grand dames, had ...

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Cambodian Journal 2011, Part 18 – Preah Vihear, the Conclusion

The children raced to the car, reached the wheel before Eddie and after Donald pealed them away one at a time, Eddie reached under the car, slipped on the washer and declared it a per fit. Now for the most important part, the nut. Eddie twists and turns and fiddles, but the nut is too small. A short conference produces ...

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Cambodian Journal 2011, Part 17 – A Trip to the Beauty Parlor

It is not exactly a secret that most women of a “certain age” have gray hair. While some women accept this as a natural look, others, including myself, choose to cover the grey with hair color, a process usually conducted once a month. In 2004, I wrote an e-mail describing my experience at the beauty parlor in the Juliana Hotel ...

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Cambodian Journal 2011, Part 16 – Preah Vihear Continued

No time expended considering the possibility of walking up, we were happy to find the driver of a Toyota four wheel drive truck and I was placed in the front seat with the driver while Eddie and Donald climbed into the back. Today, the road up is under construction, being built with proper machines and Caterpillar road equipment was very ...

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Cambodian Journal 2011, Part 14 – Back to the Village of Pom Prei

In the beginning, when tourism was still an abstraction, we would ride out to Tuit”s village on the back of a motorbike, each one of us having our favorite driver. In this way, we had direct contact with the land, riding through clouds of red dust while waving to the people who were not yet accustomed to foreigners, chasing cows ...

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Cambodian Journal 2011, Part 13 – Tuit’s Story

The villagers in Pom Prei call him Tuit, which translates into something that refers to being small. His real name is San Sab, and according to Asian tradition, San is his family name and Sab his first name. Part of the sound has to be sucked in and shortened, the other part sung out and elongated. No matter how hard ...

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